What Is A "Beep"?

While packing away my RMT "Beep" locomotive decorated as North Pole And Snowflake #1225 at the end of another successful season of circumnavigating the Christmas tree, the thought occurred to me: "What, exactly, is a 'Beep' supposed to be?" Clearly it is a fantasy locomotive with many features of an EMD GP-7 locomotive, but some of the details are clearly non-EMD in nature. I wonder, therefore, what the designers at Kusan (the original "Beep" maker) had in mind.

The GP-7 Similarities

A worn Chesapeake And Ohio GP-9 leads a Chessie System freight
through Hamilton, OH in February 1985. Note the similarities to the
general shape of the RMT "Beep" diesel. Photo by Michael R. Moore

My first encounter with the "Beep" type locomotive was Christmas 1982 when I was the lucky recipient of a Williams Army Train set powered by what Williams dubbed a "Mighty Mite" locomotive. The diesel was a short, stubby, four-wheeled contraption that looked somewhat like a shrunken GP-9 to me and so I dubbed it a "GP-4.5". I also thought at the time that Williams had originated the design which is now the basis of the RMT Beep. I was wrong.

In fact, the design goes back to the 1950's to a Tennessee toy maker named Kusan which was, like most toy companies at the time, trying to earn a share of the lucrative toy train market. Kusan's line included a handsome ALCO FA diesel (later the basis of K-Line's FA models) and also a fine-looking EMD F-7 model that it inherited when Kusan purchased Auburn Models (AMT) and its line of O gauge trains. Kusan's line of AMT F-7's and near-scale passenger and freight cars were popular with the modeling portion of the O gauge market. The FA's and "K Series" freight cars found a niche in the lower-middle portion of the toy train market. Kusan was looking for a model it could package into bottom-line sets for mass merchandisers and special clients and this new design was the birth of the Beep.

The engineer's-side view of an RMT "Beep" Note the small "F"

decoration denoting that the long hood is "forward".

Beginning with the side profile, it is obvious the Kusan's designers were using the then-new EMD GP-7 as the main inspiration for their compact diesel. The truck resembles what an EMD Blomberg style truck would look like if stretched out to twenty or so feet in length. The location of doors, louvers, and various hatches approximate those of the GP-7 design. The cab however, is both too tall and too wide, looking more like that of and EMD SW-series switcher in its relationship to the roofline. For a model that was intended to target the bottom-end of the toy train market it is quite detailed,.however.

A Little Bit Of ALCO?

The short-hood view of the Beep shows both
the GP-7 style carbody with the ALCO
inspired cab and steam generator placement.

Looking at the model from the end of the short hood the EMD-inspired styling continues with the rectangular body, headlight, marker light and ladder placement. On the roof, however, things start to get confusing. There is a detailed representation of a steam generator for passenger service (superior to Lionel's representation on its own GP-7 model). The exhaust for the steam generator is not in a typical EMD location, but rather next to the cab in the style of a steam generator equipped ALCO RS-3. This similarity continues with the high, rounded cab roof that projects much higher over the carbody than a GP-7 cab does, and the inclusion of two high windows on either side of the steam generator stack suggest an ALCO diesel as well.

The ALCO influence is even more noticeable at the long hood end. Once again, from the rail to the top of the main carbody the Beep looks like an EMD GP-7. At the top of the long hood is the biggest clue to the Beep's ALCO influence: a single, large, ALCO-style radiator fan.

A closeup of the Beep short hood roof
shows more steam generator details.

The long-hood end of the Beep reveals
more of the angular GP-7 body but more
ALCO details are visible on the roof.

A closeup of the long-hood roof
reveals the large ALCO type radiator
fan as well as the twin rectangular vents
as found on RS-3 diesels.

When I acquired my first Beep-type locomotive, the Williams "Mighty Mite", I assumed that the ALCO fan was simply a carry-over from Kusan's FA diesel design. However, after acquiring an original Kusan FA, I have found the Beep fan to be smaller but more detailed than its FA counterpart. So, inclusion of this type fan was not simply a carryover of existing tooling, but a deliberate decision on Kusan's part. Furthermore, the two rectangular vents found on the roof of the Beep do not resemble any rooftop details on the GP-7, but the RS-3 does indeed have vents of this type and location although not as pronounced as those on the Beep model.

The twin exhaust stacks are an enigma. GP-7's do in fact have twin exhaust stacks, but EMD used round stacks and they are always located parallel to the length of the locomotive in the center of the roof. ALCO RS-3's used exhaust stacks similar to those on the model, but only a single stack offset to one side rather than twins. Also, the ALCO exhaust is located closer to the radiator fan than to the cab. Perhaps the designer used a bit of artistic license to give the roof some symmetry in this case. It is puzzling, however, considering that all of the other locomotive details can indeed be found on a GP-7 or RS-3 locomotive.

The Beep, based on Kusan tooling of the 1950's is
dwarfed by this Lionel GP-7 utilizing tooling of the same era.

The Hybrid Diesel

So, when one carefully examines the details on the locomotive, a Beep is not simply a miniature EMD GP-7, but rather a hybrid of a GP-7 and an ALCO RS-3 diesel. Since the RS-3 and GP-7 were both new diesels on the rails at the time Kusan was designing the Beep, the hybrid nature of the locomotive could have been a deliberate attempt to provide buyers with a locomotive that looked somewhat like what they were seeing on their local railroad. However, most casual observers never see the roof details of a real locomotive, so this seems unlikely. Another possibility is that the model makers had photographs and / or diagrams of the GP-7 from all sides except the roof. Then, needing detailed information, they could perhaps have sent someone to the nearest railroad overpass to photograph the roof of a diesel to provide details and that diesel happened to be an RS-3. 

Here the RMT Beep poses with its Kusan cousin, an
ALCO FA diesel

The Beep Legacy

While Kusan's original Beep diesel never sold as well as Lionel's venerable Santa Fe F-3 diesels of the time, the design must be considered a success. The model has been produced in various forms over more than 60 years by three manufacturers, and the RMT model with its added details, directional lighting and twin motors is certainly the best-looking, best-running, and most-popular of all Beep varieties. While the prototype diesels that provided the inspiration for the model were the best-selling diesels of the early 1950's they are now nearly extinct, with only a few examples of each surviving in museums or on tourist lines. The model survives the original.

Happy Railroading!

Update: RMT Closing Its Doors

RMT has announced on its web page that it will be ceasing business in early 2016. Hopefully another manufacturer will carry on the legacy of this classic locomotive.

Tubular Track and Lockon Basics for Beginners

Here is a video made by Lionel's Customer Service department that can be viewed on Lionel.com. These tips apply to all makes of tubular track, not just Lionel. While O27 track is shown in the video, the same principles apply to regular O31 profile track as well.

O27 Tubular Turnout Roundup

If, like me, you choose to use O27 profile tubular track for your model railroad there are several styles of turnouts (switches) available. While none of these is currently in production, most are easy to find at train shows, online auctions and hobby shops that deal in used and collectible trains. Some feature automatic non-derailing or lighted switch-position indicators. Some run on transformer power while others utilize track power. Some are compatible with nearly all eras and manufacturers while others are strictly for post-WWII Lionel-style locomotives. Below is a short roundup of turnouts you are likely to find for your tubular track layout.

Note: According to sources at Lionel, the company has not permanently discontinued production of tubular track. The company feels, however, that the current supply of tubular track is sufficient to meet demand and they have therefore ceased production of new stock until inventory levels require new production. Lionel intends to resume production of tubular track as needed at a later date.

Lionel

Pictured at left is a typical Lionel manual turnout from the 1970's. The basic design of this turnout was the same from the beginning of the Postwar era to current production. The main differences from one model to another is the mechanism housing (upper left in the photo). If this was a remote turnout the switch motor housing would occupy the smooth area seen at the top of this photo.

Most Postwar remote turnouts have lighted position indicators, either a rotating lantern-type (such as the #1122 and 1122-E) or red and green lights on the switch motor housing (such as #1121). MPC-era turnouts feature a position indicator that is designed to look like a dwarf signal, but it is unlighted. Also, most Postwar turnouts came with lighted position indicators on the switch controllers as well. Some MPC turnouts have this feature as well but others had this feature removed as a cost-saving action.

Lionel's remote O27 turnouts are designed to run on track power. This makes wiring easier, but the turnouts may not throw completely if the train is running at slower speeds and lower power. They may be modified to operate on transformer power if desired but this requires disassembling and rewiring the turnout. The nicest feature on Lionel's remote O27 turnouts is the anti-derailing feature that is pre-wired into the switch (except Postwar #1121) that helps prevent a train from running through a turnout that is thrown against it.

Locomotives and rolling stock generally run smoothly through these turnouts unless the locomotives are of the "fat wheel" design often used by Marx and in many Prewar Lionel (pre-1942) locomotives. These types will not run though them whatsoever (See The 5-Minute Marx Switch Fix for more info). Train cars do have a tendency to derail on these turnouts when a train is backing, especially when the train is long or when traveling at higher speeds.

These turnouts and their Postwar cousins are very easy to find and the remote versions can generally be found in good condition for $15 or less. Expect to pay a bit more for those with lights, original boxes or if they have their original controllers. Manual versions can generally be obtained for as little as $5. Lionel also made an O42 version of these turnouts, but these can be difficult to find.

Overall, Lionel's O27 turnouts are an excellent choice for tubular track layouts unless you wish to operate certain Marx or Prewar locomotives on your layout.

K-Line

A K-Line O27 remote turnout

K-Line turnouts include many premium features usually associated with O gauge profile turnouts such as lighted switch position indicators, pre-wired anti-derailing, and the choice of transformer or track power without the need to disassemble the turnout. Also, when properly wired the K-Line switch controller itself also provides lit red or green switch position indication. These turnouts are available as manual or remote in both O27 and O42 configurations. However, production of these turnouts was discontinued when Lionel acquired K-Line's assets and they therefore had a relatively short production life and can be more difficult to locate than the other turnouts described here.

Locations of guardrails (red) and "ramps" (yellow) on K-Line
turnouts.

A highly unusual feature of K-Line turnouts is a design that allows both modern locomotives and, to a lesser extent, older Marx and other "fat wheel" locomotives to pass through. On each route of the turnout the outermost rail features a standard guardrail to prevent train wheels from derailing on the rail gap near the "frog" of the turnout. The inside rail, near the frog, features a "ramp" design that allows "fat wheel" locomotives to pass as well, provided that the "fat" geared wheel is on the ramp side of the turnout. Thus, with a carefully designed layout a Marx or Prewar locomotive can travel around your layout, but only in one particular direction.

The downside of this ramp system is that it can make for a bumpy ride for all locomotives and cars as they pass through the turnout and over the ramp. I have not found this to be a frequent cause of derailments, but it can be visually distracting to see cars rock and bump through the turnout and heavy diecast locomotives often pass with a discernible "thud". Also, just as with Lionel turnouts, trains have a tendency to derail when backing up through these turnouts especially when traveling at faster speeds.

In short, if you desire premium electrical features and don't mind the bumpy ride, K-Line turnouts can be worth the hunt for O27 operators.

Marx Metal

A typical Marx manual metal turnout.

Marx manufactured two basic types of O27 tubular turnouts. Of the two, the metal design is not only more common but also the more functional design. These metal turnouts are found in a number of color variations, usually with black or aluminum colored bases. The motor housings for remote turnouts usually come in black or red. A less common version of the remote turnout features a lighted motor housing with red and green switch position indication.

Unlike all of the other turnouts listed here, these Marx turnouts do not have movable switch "points" but instead a large portion of the rails swivels from side to side. This not only allows all wheel types to pass, including the "fat wheel" type, but makes passage through the turnout as smooth as passing over any standard track section. Some non-Marx locomotives and lighted cars have difficulty passing through these turnouts as designed, but a simple modification allows virtually all makes of locomotives and rolling stock to pass through problem-free (see The 5 Minute Marx Switch Fix).

Marx turnouts may be wired for either track power or transformer power, but they operate best on constant transformer power. Also, Marx turnouts are not pre-wired for non-derailing operation, but this may be easily added by the operator using insulated rail pickups. Other than the lighted versions, Marx remote turnouts do not feature a switch position indicator.

In short, Marx metal turnouts are no-frills, but they are inexpensive, durable, and can be made compatible with nearly all locomotives and cars.

Marx Plastic

A Marx plastic O27 turnout.

The other Marx turnout you may find is the plastic version. Unlike their metal counterparts, these turnouts use movable points like prototype turnouts. They lack traditional guardrails but feature a special spring-loaded attachment that both serves as a device to help keep wheel flanges from derailing on the gaps in the rails in the frog and also allows "fat wheel" locomotives to pass by dropping out of the way of the geared wheels when they pass.

Unfortunately, while the switches do an admirable job of working with the "fat wheel" locomotives, the spring-loaded sections are a poor substitute for real guardrails and many locomotives and cars - especially larger diecast locomotives - will derail on these turnouts frequently. These switches work best when trains travel through them in the "trailing point" direction - meaning from one of the two diverging routes toward the single route. When traveling through the opposite "facing point" direction they are prone to derailments on the open frog.

The video on the left shows the operation of the spring-loaded attachments on the turnout. One attachment has been removed for clarity on the video. 

In short, while these turnouts are inexpensive and are also available in O34 variants, they are not a good choice for most operators as their design, while innovative, makes the prone to derailments.

Happy Railroading!

 

O Scale vs. O Gauge - What's The Difference?

One of the more confusing concepts for beginning hobbyists is understanding the differences between O Scale and O Gauge and how these differences affect our modeling choices. Adding to the confusion is the fact that many hobbyists, and even some manufacturers, use the terms interchangeably when they are, in fact, distinct and separate concepts.

O Gauge

In railroad terms, "gauge" refers to the distance between rails on the track. For example, the "standard gauge" (not to be confused with Lionel "Standard Gauge trains of the 1910's - 1930's ---That's another post!) used by the vast majority of North American and British railways is 4' 8 1/2". There are, however, other track gauges in use such as 3' gauge, Meter Gauge, 30" Gauge, 5' Gauge and more. In model railroad terms O Gauge (technically it should be 0 or "zero gauge", but that's another blog post!) refers to any train running on track that is 1 1/4" between the outermost rails.

A variety of different toy trains that use O Gauge track.

In the photo to the left we see a collection of toy and model trains that all use O Gauge, 1 1/4" track. Obviously, these trains differ in size, detail and their manner of reflecting reality, but they all operate on O Gauge track nevertheless. So as modelers, simply knowing that a train is O Gauge is not enough information to determine how effectively it will operate with other trains or in our overall modeling and operating scheme.

We also must consider whether the model is built to be operated on 3-rail or 2-rail track. 2-rail locomotives use a different method of electrical pickup than 3-rail locomotives and the two are not interchangeable. For rolling stock there are differences in wheel types, wheel flanges, and coupler types that make 2-rail and 3-rail O Gauge trains mostly incompatible. Why do we use three rails in the first place? Again, that is a topic for another article! In the mean time, just accept that we do.

O Scale

In modeling terms, "scale" refers to the relative proportion of the model to its real-life counterpart, or "prototype" as we say in the model universe. HO Scale models, for example, are built to a proportion of 1/87 actual size.  S Scale models are 1/64 actual size. O Scale models are built to a proportion of 1/48 actual size (or sometimes 1/43 actual size but again, that is a topic for another article!).

Another way of thinking about scale is to determine what measurement is equal to a "scale foot". This is similar to the scale of a map with such measurements as 1" to the mile or 1" to 100 miles. O Scale is generally thought of as 1/4" = 1 actual foot. However, we see quickly that by that scale our 1 1/4" track would be 5' gauge, not 4' 8 1/2". Frankly, most modelers ignore this discrepancy in a favor of the easy math of 1" = 4'.

When "Scale" Is Not Scale

Four different O Gauge boxcars. Each is "scale", but only one is O Scale.

O Scale is a wonderful proportion to work with for modeling. Details are easy to see and simple to construct. Trains are large and easy for kids of all ages to handle - even those who wear trifocals. The disadvantage, however, is that trains built to true 1/48 scale require a great deal of real estate to turn around realistically. Since very few of us have room for layouts large enough to accommodate track curves in excess of 12' in diameter, manufacturers have devised methods of making these trains capable of navigating tighter curves. One of these methods is the use of different "scales" with O gauge track.



In the photo above we see four different O gauge boxcars. Each of which is a "scale" model, but only one is proportioned to O scale. The New York Central car in the back left was made by Auburn Models in the early 1950's and was proportioned to be a true 1/48 O scale model of a common 40' boxcar. The yellow Chessie System car to its right is also more or less a scale model of a 40' boxcar but it is proportioned to a slightly smaller scale, roughly 1/50. This car, made by Lionel in the 1970's, is identical in size to the Lionel 6464 series cars of the 1950's to the end of Postwar production in 1969. Many hobbyists refer to this size - slightly smaller than true O scale - as "traditional size".

On the near track, the Southern Pacific car in the front right is a K-Line car based on 1950's to 1970's era Marx tooling. These cars, like most Marx 8-wheel cars, are scaled to 3/16" to the foot, or S Scale, but they ride on O gauge wheels. The Bosco car in the front left is another Lionel model, a "Scout"-type boxcar also built to approximately S scale proportions but on O gauge wheels. These front cars are typical of what many hobbyists consider to be O27 cars - those that can easily navigate the tightest of O gauge curves. However, all four of these cars, including the Auburn Models true 1/48 boxcar, can easily navigate O27 curves.

The Challenge of Proportion

The challenge then, of 3-rail O gauge modeling, is to find cars and locomotives that are proportionally similar and run them together. This is mainly accomplished through time, experience, research, and a bit of trial and error. Unfortunately, most manufacturers offer models proportioned to various scales among their O gauge offerings. For example, Lionel's F-3, GP-7, and NW-2 diesel models are very close to true O scale. Their FA diesels, however, are closer to 1/55 scale. Similarly, Lionel made 4-6-4 steam locomotives that varied from true O scale, like the famous #700E, to the roughly 1/55 scale #2055 Hudson, and the 6-8-6 steam turbine locomotive scaled out to roughly 1/64 scale! Generally speaking, however, the smaller diameter curve the train will handle (27" vs 72" for example) the smaller the proportion of the model. Conversely, if you are looking to model true O scale in 1/48 proportion you will likely be limited to those models that can navigate O42 curves and larger.

Track Type: O or O27?

This diagram from a postwar Lionel instruction sheet
incorrectly identifies the diameter of Standard O curves
as 30" rather than 31".

Further complicating things is that there are two main types of O gauge tubular track: Standard O and O27. Both types are the same gauge (1 1/4") but the rails differ in height and length with Standard O having the larger dimensions in each case. O27 derives its name from the diameter of a circle of track measuring 27" vs. the 31" of Standard O. O gauge hobbyists refer to other curve diameters by number as well, such as O42, O54 and O72 denoting curve diameters of 42", 54" and 72" respectively. If you are not totally confused yet, consider that all of these track diameters are available in both O27 and O31 track profiles!

Which should you choose? It depends on your tastes and your needs. I choose to use O27 track because it is less expensive, readily available, and the lower track profile looks more realistic. On the other hand, Standard O track is more durable and mates with most brands of modern track systems and flexible track such as Gargraves and Atlas O. 

Whichever you choose, Happy Railroading!

 

Let The Kids Be Kids

Here is a short video taken tonight with my 7 year old son at the throttle of a long train. Note how the locomotives are literally swarming with Lego people. Note how Hot Wheels, Matchbox and other vehicles have run amok on the layout. Also notice the fun he is having.

One of the reasons I named my railroad the FUN Lines is to remind me that it is supposed to be FUN and not to get overly concerned with scale accuracy, ultra-realistic scenery, rivet counting, historical accuracy and such.

Let the kids be kids on the layout! Even if YOU think the building should go here and not there, let THEM take control. You will both have more fun in the end.

Tip: Remote Emergency Power Shutoff

More and more often I find that my own "little engineers" and their neighborhood friends want to enjoy some time at the throttle of my under-construction O27 layout. When I know in advance that the kids are coming its easy enough to power up and inexpensive Marx or Lionel starter set on the main lines for the little ones to enjoy. But what about those times when I am enjoying "grandpa's" prized postwar passenger set when the little ones arrive? How can I let them play engineer without fear of my train becoming a very expensive pile of junk on the basement floor?

Luckily, I have found a simple, quick and cheap (my specialty!) device that lets the little ones manage the throttle while I inconspicuously man the Panic Button from anywhere in the room. It is a 3-channel remote-control power switch that is designed for use with holiday lighting displays. It allows me to control three separate circuits remotely. I have Channel 1 plugged into the multi-plug that operates the overhead lights. Channel 2 is plugged into the multi-plug that powers all of the transformers on the layout. Channel 3 is currently empty, but I am sure I will find a use for it sometime.

Look for these where you buy Christmas lights, and especially after Christmas when they will go on clearance!

The 5 Minute Marx Switch Fix

As I have mentioned in previous posts, I use Marx turnouts (switches) throughout my O27 layout. I like these because they are compatible with virtually any locomotive and rolling stock ever made that is designed for O27 curves. I find that all makes of trains travel through these turnouts smoother than on modern designs, especially at high speeds or when backing up. These turnouts are also easy to find, durable and inexpensive. All that is required for nearly all locomotives and cars is a simple 5-minute alteration to the original Marx design.

What Is The Difference?

A typical Lionel O27 turnout. Note the guardrails.

The main design difference between old Marx turnouts made between circa 1940 and circa 1970 and those of other companies is their "frogless" design which eliminates the need for guardrails on the turnout. Modern turnouts operate much like the prototype (real railroad) designs with movable "points" at one end which lead the wheels of the train to one of two routes. The spot where the diverging route meets the inside straight rail a v-shaped rail, called a "frog" is created. Also, a gap must be present in the inside straight rail and the inside diverging rail to allow the flanges of train wheels to pass. To prevent the train from derailing on this gap guardrails are required on the opposite side which keep the wheels from falling into the gap.

A typical Marx metal turnout. Note the movable rails.

On older Marx turnouts, both the diverging rail and the center rail swivel as a single unit from route to route. Thus there are no frogs and no gaps, and therefore no guardrails are required. This creates a smoother passage for the train as there are no gaps to "bump" through and no chance of wheels derailing on such gaps. So, while more modern turnout designs for O27 trains look more realistic, the old metal Marx design offers several operational advantages.

"Fat" Wheels

So why did Marx design their turnouts differently than other manufacturers? The main issue is the so-called "fat wheel". On many early O gauge and O27 locomotives the spur gear from the locomotive motor turned the drive wheels directly via large gears attached to the back of the drive wheels themselves. The diameter of these gears was often the same or only slightly smaller than the drive wheels themselves. This created a "fat wheel" that could not pass through guardrails or other track obstructions. While most manufacturers abandoned the "fat wheel" prior to 1942, Marx maintained the design on all locomotives until 1950, and continued it on many Marx locomotives until the end of Marx production in the 1970's. Therefore, Marx kept the frogless design to accommodate their contemporary line of locomotives.

Fat Wheels on a Marx #400 Steamer

Pick 'Em Up Right

The other difference between Marx products and other, and the one that requires our "fix", is in the design of the electrical pickups on the center rail.  Marx locomotives, as seen in the top photo on the left, use a long copper strip that slides along the center rail. This design maximizes the contact area with the center rail and also prevents the pickup from catching on any gaps that may exist in the center rail due to crossings, turnouts or other special track sections. These pickups, which are also used on Marx's "small gear" locomotives, have no trouble passing through turnouts made by any manufacturer.

Smaller Gears on a Lionel #8141 Steamer

The Catch

Lionel and most non-Marx locomotives use small roller wheels to contact the center rail. These wheels reduce friction with the track but have a smaller contact area and are susceptible to snagging on small gaps in the center rail. Lionel turnouts are designed so that these gaps are small enough to prevent snagging by these pickups. Marx turnouts, however, are not designed this way and some roller pickup locomotives, but not all, may catch on these gaps in the Marx turnout and derail. This is why many O27 operators believe that Marx turnouts are not compatible with Lionel and other locomotives. We will see, however, that this problem can be easily corrected.

Getting Pinned

Center rail gap on unmodified
Marx turnout when set for straight
route.

Center rail gap on unmodified
Marx turnout when set for
diverging route.

The photos above show the locations of the two center rail gaps on an unmodified Marx turnout. These gaps are sufficiently large that roller pickups on some locomotives and cars can drop into the gap, snap the rail, and cause a derailment. The fix for this is to bridge these gaps with simple rail joiners - any O27 brand joiner will work. Simply insert a track pin into the fixed center rail so that it rests as close as possible - but not touching - the swivel rail on either side. This provides not only a physical bridge but an electrical one as well, improving the performance of roller pickup equipment through the turnout.

Friction does well to keep the pin in place, but a drop of ACC cement or a quick touch with a soldering gun will make the fix more permanent.

Marx turnout modified with track pins.

Marx turnout modified with track pins.

And thus, your Marx turnouts may now accommodate not only your Marx locomotives and rolling stock, but that of Lionel and other manufacturers as well! Please note that this trick works only with the metal Marx turnouts. The plastic Marx O27 and O34 turnouts are different in design and are not recommended for use with the locomotives of other makers.

**Note: I have an eclectic collection of postwar and modern locomotives by a variety of manufacturers. To date, I have found only one locomotive for which this fix does not consistently work. That locomotive is a "Beep" diesel by RMT. However, I have found another simple solution that works for that locomotive - and any other that shares its difficulty with Marx turnouts. I will share that solution in a later post. Until then, Happy Railroading!

Product News: RMT "Beeps" on Sale

Ready Made Toys is once again accepting orders for the newest batch of their popular "Beep" diesels. For a limited time they are on sale for only $99.99. Check the RMT Direct web page for details.

A Simple Christmas Tree Layout

Here is the 2015 edition of my family Christmas tree, train and village. The village and train took me about an hour to construct from start to finish. Below are the materials I used and tips for your own display.

Laying The Foundation

Many hobbyists build a solid platform for their holiday trains and reuse them year after year. I have always intended to do this, but honestly I have just never had the time. Therefore, this year's layout, like all before it, is simply laid out on two snow blankets on the living room carpet. The blankets are 30" by 8', and I simply laid one on each side of the center line of the Christmas tree. Don't worry about any lumps as these just represent snow drifts or hills. The ski hills on my display are simply spots where the snow blanket must pass over the tree stand. In past years I have substituted a simple white bed sheet for the snow blankets with good results as well.

Choosing The Track

Unlike my permanent layout, I do not use tubular track for my Christmas display layouts. I use MTH Realtrax sections instead. Since I do not have any turnouts or crossings on my Christmas layout there are no compatibility issues with my Marx and Lionel trains. The MTH track is great for temporary floor layouts because the pieces snap together and hold together well and the molded roadbed helps keep stray carpet or blanket fibers out of the trains. Lionel's Fastrack would also be a good choice if you have that on hand. These track systems are more expensive than traditional tubular track, but I believe in this situation the advantages outweigh the costs and on a small layout the expense is not so great.

My track plan is a simple oval. There are no turnouts, crossings or other special track sections. Only simple straight and curved sections are used. Make your oval large enough to completely encircle your tree, but small enough to avoid your trains being stepped on or encroaching on the living area of the room. In my setup only eight curves and six straights are required, but your layout may vary based on the size of your tree and stand.

Some other innovative layout designs may be found at Thortrains.net.  This site was established by a long-time O27 operator and offers many great tips about many O27 train topics, although it has not been updated in quite some time.

Powering Up

Just about any transformer will work for a small display layout such as this. I am using a Lionel CW80 this year. This is a modern power pack that was commonly included in Lionel starter sets of the 1990's - 2000's. I am using only a single pair of feeder wires to the track as solid electrical connections are another advantage of the RealTrax.

Structures

There are literally dozens of brands of ceramic and porcelain Christmas village structures on the market in a wide variety of price ranges and scales. Some are as small as HO scale, while others are larger than O scale. Most, like mine, are slightly smaller than O scale, which makes them just right for traditional O27 trains. My village was purchased at an after-Christmas closeout sale more than 20 years ago but similar ones are available today at various craft and collectibles stores. Choose the style that works for you.

Another option is to use plastic structures like Bachmann's Plasticville line or old Marx plastic buildings - or the K-Line structures made from old Marx molds. These,too, are undersize for O scale, but look great with O27 trains. Plus, these structures can be used after Christmas on your permanent railroad as well.

Still another option is to use do-it-yourself cardstock structures.  A great variety of neat and easy to build Christmas structures is available for free download from Thortrains.net.  These structures can be downloaded for free and printed from your home computer. Simply print, cut out, and paste together. These buildings are fun and whimsical, and look great with O27 trains. My sons and I have made several of them for their layout.

Choosing The Trains

The choice of trains for your display are a matter of taste and reliability. I like to choose smaller O27 trains that have reliable engines and good-running cars that require very little attention. In the past I have chosen everything from Marx battery-operated sets to premium Lionel passenger and steam locomotive sets. My goals this year were colorful, whimsical and kid-friendly trains.

My choice of locomotives this year is the Christmas-themed North Pole and Snowflake "Beep" by RMT trains. The "Beep" is a fantasy 4-wheeled miniature version of a GP-9 locomotive. Its small size looks great with my Christmas village and its two modern can motors give it reliability and plenty of pulling power. It is also geared to run slowly, so even at full throttle the train will not leave the rails. When we tire of diesel power the back-up locomotive is a Thomas The Tank Engine by Lionel from the late 1990's. With forward-only operation, this locomotive is easy for my little engineers to control.

The rolling stock for this year's display makes up a "mixed" train - one featuring both freight and passenger cars. The freight cars include a Lionel MPC "Lifesavers" tank car from 1978, which looks like a giant roll of candy on wheels, and a red Southern Pacific gondola car by Lionel MPC from 1977 which has been fitted with a Santa with sleigh and reindeer that I recycled from an old Christmas decoration. The passenger cars are Annie and Clarabell from the same Thomas set as our back-up locomotive. These cars add to the whimsy and fun of the railroad, and give my boy engineers a reason to stop the train at the passenger depot from time to time. Pulling up the rear is a red Western Maryland "safety" caboose, also by Lionel from the early 2000's. This is a lighted caboose that adds to the overall fun of the train.

Don't Forget Sound!

Nothing adds to the fun factor of a holiday train display like a whistle or horn on your train. If, like me, you have selected locomotives lacking on-board sound, you can use my BLUETOOTH speaker trick to add horn, whistle, chugging or even Christmas sounds to your train at a very reasonable cost.

Ready For Action

A train around the Christmas tree is as common a holiday tradition as pumpkin pie and sugar cookies. You don't have to spend a great deal of time or money on a fun and functional Christmas tree train. Plan ahead with reliability and fun in mind, and you are sure to have a wonderful time running trains around your tree.

Christmas BLUETOOTH Sounds

Just a quick note for those who are using the BLUETOOTH speaker trick to add sounds to your trains. If you are looking to add Christmas sounds to your holiday train display, the Christmas Sounds Soundboard App is a great, free download. It features a number of songs, sound clips, "Ho, Ho, Ho"'s and other holiday favorites that make great additions to a Christmas train.

Re-Construction Update on the FUN Lines

As many of you have noticed in my recent videos, my model railroad the FUN Lines (Fantasia, Utopia and Northern) is undergoing a remodel. Here's a little bit about my layout and future plans.

Layout Design

The overall footprint of the FUN Lines is a 12' x 8' "L" shape. In fact, it is constructed of two 4' x 8' sections with a small 2' x 4' outcropping. My current effort is actually the fifth layout to occupy this benchwork - in three different buildings - over the past eighteen years. It began life as a Christmas display in a retail store.

There are currently two main lines, with a third planned. The outside main follows the perimeter of the benchwork and features O42 (42" diameter) minimum curves. The inside main is a simple oval with a diagonal reversing line featuring a mix of O27 (27" diameter) and O34 (34" diameter) curves. The O34 curves were made by Marx in the 1950's-1960's. Several industrial spurs are planned on this inner loop. These two loops are connected with two sets of crossovers to allow trains to move back and forth between them.

The third line - not yet constructed - will begin as a spur off of the middle loop. It will then loop around the "L" shaped portion of the layout and climb up to an upper line, crossing over the middle oval via a Lionel drawbridge from the 1970's. This upper line will be a loop-to-loop design featuring a mix of O27 and O42 curves.

Track Choices

There are many wonderful and realistic track systems available from today's manufacturers and the modeler is faced with the dilemma of this choice. My choice was to avoid them all and stick with O27 profile tubular track. Why? First it was an inexpensive choice because I already had lots of it on hand. I have accumulated both Postwar (1946-1969) Lionel pieces, Lionel MPC (1970-1986) pieces, Marx and even K-Line tubular track. All of them work interchangeably, although some Marx straight pieces measure 10" in length instead of the customary 8 1/2" of the other brands. Also, replacement tubular track may be found inexpensively at almost any train show or meet, and even on eBay (but be careful of shipping costs).

I use O27 profile track as opposed to traditional O31 "O Gauge" track because I like the smaller rail height, which I think is more realistic, and because it is cheaper and more abundant than the larger-railed standard O31 track. I say "O27 profile" because while the standard curve diameter is 27", track with this rail type is also available in 34", 42", 54" and even 72" diameter pieces. These larger radii are becoming more difficult to find, however.

Turnouts (Switches)

The area where my railroad deviates most from common practice is my choice of turnouts (or switches, as they are commonly called). I use Marx old-style metal O27 turnouts thoughout my layout. First, I choose them for compatibility with other trains. All Marx trains and nearly all Lionel and other manufacturers will run though Marx turnouts without major issues - and the minor issues can be fixed with a 5-minute modification. Many believe that Lionel locomotives absolutely will not run through Marx switches - this is FALSE. My Lionel trains do it every time I operate my layout. However, most Marx and some prewar Lionel and American Flyer O gauge trains will NOT run through Lionel turnouts or those of other modern production.

Second, I find trains run over the frogless Marx design with fewer bumps, bangs and derailments than with Lionel and other modern turnouts. Modern turnouts have gaps in the rails that are protected by guardrails, but these gaps are opportunities for wayward cars to derail - especially when backing or at extreme speeds.

Third, these old Marx switches are a great bargain. They are durable, reliable and cheap. I often find powered turnouts for as little as $10 a pair.

A note of caution: I use the Marx metal switch design - NOT THE PLASTIC. I have found the later production Marx plastic turnouts to be unreliable for use with Lionel and other trains.

More To Come...

 

Adding Sound To O27 Locos With A Bluetooth Speaker

I have found an inexpensive, quick and easy method for adding sounds such as horns, whistles, "chugging" and anything else one can imagine to O gauge locomotives.  In fact, this method will work for any scale HO and larger. The secret is using your smartphone or tablet (or any other BLUETOOTH-enabled device that can play sounds) to a small wireless BLUETOOTH speaker placed inside the locomotive or in nearby rolling stock. The best part? The whole project can cost as little as $10!

Here's how it works:

Selecting A Speaker

First you need a BLUETOOTH speaker small enough to fit inside your train. I found one called a Groove Cube at my local Wal-Mart for $9.99.  This speaker is shaped like a cube and is just over 1.25 square inches in size. This is small enough to fit inside an O scale tender, boxcar, locomotive cab, and even a Lionel gondola canister. It will also fit inside an HO scale boxcar. Despite its small size the speaker is rated at 2 watts of output and features excellent sound quality. In my testing I have found the volume of a typical diesel horn sound to be comparable to the output of a Williams "True Blast" horn. In web searches I have found other speakers that are slightly larger with up to a 3 watt output, but I have not yet tested any of these.

Speaker Placement

You probably will not want to permanently install your speaker in your locomotive or rolling stock. This is because you will need access to the speaker to recharge the battery via USB cable, and to access the power on/off button. So far I have been successful just sitting my speaker in place loosely, but I imagine I might use Velcro tape to make some mounting positions more permanent. The speaker does not need to be located in the locomotive itself for satisfactory sound results, but may be placed in the first car behind a locomotive instead.

Selecting Your Sounds

Your options are limitless for providing sounds to play in your train. Many sound files are available on the internet as free downloads. You can record your favorite locomotive with your camera and create a sound file from that as well. The easiest option, and the one I have chosen, is to utilize sound collections already provided by other model railroaders. For an Android device, visit the Google Play Store online and search under "Model Railroad Sound" or "Train Sounds" and you will find a number of great apps that provide steam and diesel locomotive sounds - and most of these are FREE! Similar apps are probably available for Apple users as well.

Summary

If you are looking for an inexpensive way to add sounds to your locomotive fleet - whether you want a simple horn or whistle, or a sound to replace an old Lionel "Mighty Electronic Sound of Steam" unit, or you want to play Grand Funk Railroad sounds from your Marx 999 - THIS is a cheap, quick, easy and effective solution!

O Gauge from Menards

Home improvement retailer Menards continues to expand its line of O gauge train offerings, including rolling stock, structures, vehicles, scenery and even traditional O-31 tubular track. Items may be purchased in stores or online. The line also includes assortments and multi-packs, like this cool 14-piece boxcar set!

Introduction

Fun With O Gauge, 3-Rail Trains

Have you ever thought about getting started with O gauge three-rail toy and model trains but thought they were too expensive? Today's offerings from Lionel, MTH, Atlas O and others feature amazing advances over the traditional trains we think of from the 1950's and 1960's, but the price tag can be equally impressive as well. Sometimes a single high-end locomotive can rival the cost of a typical mortgage payment! However, if you are interested in trains that are fun and durable, but not necessarily high-tech you can still have a fun, affordable O gauge layout.

A Great Time For Traditional Operators

While the high-tech, high-detail segment of the O gauge market has been the focus of most manufacturers in recent years, there has rarely been a better time for operators of "traditional" or "conventional" 3-rail trains in terms of variety, quality, and budget. While the high-tech digital command control systems are amazing, they come with the disadvantages of cost and compatibility. One manufacturers' trains may operate on another's operating system, but often not with with the full complement of features without costly and complicated system upgrades and fixes. Meanwhile, with conventional control the trains are not only (usually) less expensive, but a train built by Lionel in the 1930's can run on the same layout as a train built by Marx in the 1950's and Lionel MPC in the 1970's. Meanwhile, when a command control locomotive malfunctions it usually requires an expensive trip to the local dealer or back to the manufacturer for repairs. Conventional locomotives can generally be maintained and repaired by anyone with a basic knowledge of how electricity works.

Variety, Variety, Variety

The name everyone associates with 3-rail trains is Lionel. This is for good reason as Lionel has represented high-quality and highly-desirable toy and model trains for over a century. With few exceptions other than coupler types, every O gauge Lionel train made is compatible with every 3 rail other O gauge Lionel train. Lionel's "Postwar" trains (1946 - 1969) were once the most coveted by both operators and collectors for their high quality and the nostalgia of the Baby Boomers who were the main collectors of these items and in previous years commanded equally high prices. Today, as many high quality new trains are available and the Boomers are liquidating their collections for retirement cash, Postwar prices are more affordable than ever and even operators of modest means can acquire these well-built models. 

Likewise, trains of Lionel's MPC era (1970 - 1986), though generally of lesser quality than Postwar trains, commanded high prices because, at that time, Lionel was the only mass manufacturer of 3-rail trains. Today, with many manufacturers making quality new trains and the reputation of poorer quality has made Lionel MPC prices plummet. However, there are still some gems to be found in the MPC line for operators to acquire and enjoy at bargain basement prices.

Another name to know for 3-rail trains in Marx. The Louis Marx Co. made many inexpensive but durable trains from the 1920's to the 1970's and they are all compatible with one another. Also, with the proper choice of track systems and accommodations for different coupler types, Marx trains and Lionel trains can run on the same layout. Better yet, Marx trains are inexpensive, durable, and easy to repair. I used Marx as the first trains my young boys operated as they were simple, durable and inexpensive - in short, PERFECT for kids to play with!

Other names to know in the 3-rail train world include Auburn Models (AMT), Kusan, K-Line, RMT, Williams (and Williams by Bachmann), American Flyer (pre-WWII) and others. In short, there is a whole WORLD of O gauge fun out there!

The goal of this blog is to provide inspiration, information, tips, tricks and strategies to making your journey into 3-rail O gauge railroading a success. I hope you enjoy it and come back often!

A Small Layout for the Kids

A Small Layout for the Kids

Here is a 4' x 4' layout I built yesterday for my twin boys to run their trains on. I already had the table, so I added some extruded foam board to help deaden the sound, painted it green with some acrylic paint and a foam roller, added the track, wired it, and added the trains. The boys then added their own vehicles and structures to make a great layout for play. The track is a mix of Lionel, K-Line and Marx sections I had on hand. The switch (turnout) is an old Marx manual, and note that the Lionel steamer has no problems whatsoever running through the Marx switch - something many say is not possible! I hope there is some inspiration here to get you started.