What Is A "Beep"?

While packing away my RMT "Beep" locomotive decorated as North Pole And Snowflake #1225 at the end of another successful season of circumnavigating the Christmas tree, the thought occurred to me: "What, exactly, is a 'Beep' supposed to be?" Clearly it is a fantasy locomotive with many features of an EMD GP-7 locomotive, but some of the details are clearly non-EMD in nature. I wonder, therefore, what the designers at Kusan (the original "Beep" maker) had in mind.

The GP-7 Similarities

A worn Chesapeake And Ohio GP-9 leads a Chessie System freight
through Hamilton, OH in February 1985. Note the similarities to the
general shape of the RMT "Beep" diesel. Photo by Michael R. Moore

My first encounter with the "Beep" type locomotive was Christmas 1982 when I was the lucky recipient of a Williams Army Train set powered by what Williams dubbed a "Mighty Mite" locomotive. The diesel was a short, stubby, four-wheeled contraption that looked somewhat like a shrunken GP-9 to me and so I dubbed it a "GP-4.5". I also thought at the time that Williams had originated the design which is now the basis of the RMT Beep. I was wrong.

In fact, the design goes back to the 1950's to a Tennessee toy maker named Kusan which was, like most toy companies at the time, trying to earn a share of the lucrative toy train market. Kusan's line included a handsome ALCO FA diesel (later the basis of K-Line's FA models) and also a fine-looking EMD F-7 model that it inherited when Kusan purchased Auburn Models (AMT) and its line of O gauge trains. Kusan's line of AMT F-7's and near-scale passenger and freight cars were popular with the modeling portion of the O gauge market. The FA's and "K Series" freight cars found a niche in the lower-middle portion of the toy train market. Kusan was looking for a model it could package into bottom-line sets for mass merchandisers and special clients and this new design was the birth of the Beep.

The engineer's-side view of an RMT "Beep" Note the small "F"

decoration denoting that the long hood is "forward".

Beginning with the side profile, it is obvious the Kusan's designers were using the then-new EMD GP-7 as the main inspiration for their compact diesel. The truck resembles what an EMD Blomberg style truck would look like if stretched out to twenty or so feet in length. The location of doors, louvers, and various hatches approximate those of the GP-7 design. The cab however, is both too tall and too wide, looking more like that of and EMD SW-series switcher in its relationship to the roofline. For a model that was intended to target the bottom-end of the toy train market it is quite detailed,.however.

A Little Bit Of ALCO?

The short-hood view of the Beep shows both
the GP-7 style carbody with the ALCO
inspired cab and steam generator placement.

Looking at the model from the end of the short hood the EMD-inspired styling continues with the rectangular body, headlight, marker light and ladder placement. On the roof, however, things start to get confusing. There is a detailed representation of a steam generator for passenger service (superior to Lionel's representation on its own GP-7 model). The exhaust for the steam generator is not in a typical EMD location, but rather next to the cab in the style of a steam generator equipped ALCO RS-3. This similarity continues with the high, rounded cab roof that projects much higher over the carbody than a GP-7 cab does, and the inclusion of two high windows on either side of the steam generator stack suggest an ALCO diesel as well.

The ALCO influence is even more noticeable at the long hood end. Once again, from the rail to the top of the main carbody the Beep looks like an EMD GP-7. At the top of the long hood is the biggest clue to the Beep's ALCO influence: a single, large, ALCO-style radiator fan.

A closeup of the Beep short hood roof
shows more steam generator details.

The long-hood end of the Beep reveals
more of the angular GP-7 body but more
ALCO details are visible on the roof.

A closeup of the long-hood roof
reveals the large ALCO type radiator
fan as well as the twin rectangular vents
as found on RS-3 diesels.

When I acquired my first Beep-type locomotive, the Williams "Mighty Mite", I assumed that the ALCO fan was simply a carry-over from Kusan's FA diesel design. However, after acquiring an original Kusan FA, I have found the Beep fan to be smaller but more detailed than its FA counterpart. So, inclusion of this type fan was not simply a carryover of existing tooling, but a deliberate decision on Kusan's part. Furthermore, the two rectangular vents found on the roof of the Beep do not resemble any rooftop details on the GP-7, but the RS-3 does indeed have vents of this type and location although not as pronounced as those on the Beep model.

The twin exhaust stacks are an enigma. GP-7's do in fact have twin exhaust stacks, but EMD used round stacks and they are always located parallel to the length of the locomotive in the center of the roof. ALCO RS-3's used exhaust stacks similar to those on the model, but only a single stack offset to one side rather than twins. Also, the ALCO exhaust is located closer to the radiator fan than to the cab. Perhaps the designer used a bit of artistic license to give the roof some symmetry in this case. It is puzzling, however, considering that all of the other locomotive details can indeed be found on a GP-7 or RS-3 locomotive.

The Beep, based on Kusan tooling of the 1950's is
dwarfed by this Lionel GP-7 utilizing tooling of the same era.

The Hybrid Diesel

So, when one carefully examines the details on the locomotive, a Beep is not simply a miniature EMD GP-7, but rather a hybrid of a GP-7 and an ALCO RS-3 diesel. Since the RS-3 and GP-7 were both new diesels on the rails at the time Kusan was designing the Beep, the hybrid nature of the locomotive could have been a deliberate attempt to provide buyers with a locomotive that looked somewhat like what they were seeing on their local railroad. However, most casual observers never see the roof details of a real locomotive, so this seems unlikely. Another possibility is that the model makers had photographs and / or diagrams of the GP-7 from all sides except the roof. Then, needing detailed information, they could perhaps have sent someone to the nearest railroad overpass to photograph the roof of a diesel to provide details and that diesel happened to be an RS-3. 

Here the RMT Beep poses with its Kusan cousin, an
ALCO FA diesel

The Beep Legacy

While Kusan's original Beep diesel never sold as well as Lionel's venerable Santa Fe F-3 diesels of the time, the design must be considered a success. The model has been produced in various forms over more than 60 years by three manufacturers, and the RMT model with its added details, directional lighting and twin motors is certainly the best-looking, best-running, and most-popular of all Beep varieties. While the prototype diesels that provided the inspiration for the model were the best-selling diesels of the early 1950's they are now nearly extinct, with only a few examples of each surviving in museums or on tourist lines. The model survives the original.

Happy Railroading!

Update: RMT Closing Its Doors

RMT has announced on its web page that it will be ceasing business in early 2016. Hopefully another manufacturer will carry on the legacy of this classic locomotive.

Tubular Track and Lockon Basics for Beginners

Here is a video made by Lionel's Customer Service department that can be viewed on Lionel.com. These tips apply to all makes of tubular track, not just Lionel. While O27 track is shown in the video, the same principles apply to regular O31 profile track as well.

O27 Tubular Turnout Roundup

If, like me, you choose to use O27 profile tubular track for your model railroad there are several styles of turnouts (switches) available. While none of these is currently in production, most are easy to find at train shows, online auctions and hobby shops that deal in used and collectible trains. Some feature automatic non-derailing or lighted switch-position indicators. Some run on transformer power while others utilize track power. Some are compatible with nearly all eras and manufacturers while others are strictly for post-WWII Lionel-style locomotives. Below is a short roundup of turnouts you are likely to find for your tubular track layout.

Note: According to sources at Lionel, the company has not permanently discontinued production of tubular track. The company feels, however, that the current supply of tubular track is sufficient to meet demand and they have therefore ceased production of new stock until inventory levels require new production. Lionel intends to resume production of tubular track as needed at a later date.

Lionel

Pictured at left is a typical Lionel manual turnout from the 1970's. The basic design of this turnout was the same from the beginning of the Postwar era to current production. The main differences from one model to another is the mechanism housing (upper left in the photo). If this was a remote turnout the switch motor housing would occupy the smooth area seen at the top of this photo.

Most Postwar remote turnouts have lighted position indicators, either a rotating lantern-type (such as the #1122 and 1122-E) or red and green lights on the switch motor housing (such as #1121). MPC-era turnouts feature a position indicator that is designed to look like a dwarf signal, but it is unlighted. Also, most Postwar turnouts came with lighted position indicators on the switch controllers as well. Some MPC turnouts have this feature as well but others had this feature removed as a cost-saving action.

Lionel's remote O27 turnouts are designed to run on track power. This makes wiring easier, but the turnouts may not throw completely if the train is running at slower speeds and lower power. They may be modified to operate on transformer power if desired but this requires disassembling and rewiring the turnout. The nicest feature on Lionel's remote O27 turnouts is the anti-derailing feature that is pre-wired into the switch (except Postwar #1121) that helps prevent a train from running through a turnout that is thrown against it.

Locomotives and rolling stock generally run smoothly through these turnouts unless the locomotives are of the "fat wheel" design often used by Marx and in many Prewar Lionel (pre-1942) locomotives. These types will not run though them whatsoever (See The 5-Minute Marx Switch Fix for more info). Train cars do have a tendency to derail on these turnouts when a train is backing, especially when the train is long or when traveling at higher speeds.

These turnouts and their Postwar cousins are very easy to find and the remote versions can generally be found in good condition for $15 or less. Expect to pay a bit more for those with lights, original boxes or if they have their original controllers. Manual versions can generally be obtained for as little as $5. Lionel also made an O42 version of these turnouts, but these can be difficult to find.

Overall, Lionel's O27 turnouts are an excellent choice for tubular track layouts unless you wish to operate certain Marx or Prewar locomotives on your layout.

K-Line

A K-Line O27 remote turnout

K-Line turnouts include many premium features usually associated with O gauge profile turnouts such as lighted switch position indicators, pre-wired anti-derailing, and the choice of transformer or track power without the need to disassemble the turnout. Also, when properly wired the K-Line switch controller itself also provides lit red or green switch position indication. These turnouts are available as manual or remote in both O27 and O42 configurations. However, production of these turnouts was discontinued when Lionel acquired K-Line's assets and they therefore had a relatively short production life and can be more difficult to locate than the other turnouts described here.

Locations of guardrails (red) and "ramps" (yellow) on K-Line
turnouts.

A highly unusual feature of K-Line turnouts is a design that allows both modern locomotives and, to a lesser extent, older Marx and other "fat wheel" locomotives to pass through. On each route of the turnout the outermost rail features a standard guardrail to prevent train wheels from derailing on the rail gap near the "frog" of the turnout. The inside rail, near the frog, features a "ramp" design that allows "fat wheel" locomotives to pass as well, provided that the "fat" geared wheel is on the ramp side of the turnout. Thus, with a carefully designed layout a Marx or Prewar locomotive can travel around your layout, but only in one particular direction.

The downside of this ramp system is that it can make for a bumpy ride for all locomotives and cars as they pass through the turnout and over the ramp. I have not found this to be a frequent cause of derailments, but it can be visually distracting to see cars rock and bump through the turnout and heavy diecast locomotives often pass with a discernible "thud". Also, just as with Lionel turnouts, trains have a tendency to derail when backing up through these turnouts especially when traveling at faster speeds.

In short, if you desire premium electrical features and don't mind the bumpy ride, K-Line turnouts can be worth the hunt for O27 operators.

Marx Metal

A typical Marx manual metal turnout.

Marx manufactured two basic types of O27 tubular turnouts. Of the two, the metal design is not only more common but also the more functional design. These metal turnouts are found in a number of color variations, usually with black or aluminum colored bases. The motor housings for remote turnouts usually come in black or red. A less common version of the remote turnout features a lighted motor housing with red and green switch position indication.

Unlike all of the other turnouts listed here, these Marx turnouts do not have movable switch "points" but instead a large portion of the rails swivels from side to side. This not only allows all wheel types to pass, including the "fat wheel" type, but makes passage through the turnout as smooth as passing over any standard track section. Some non-Marx locomotives and lighted cars have difficulty passing through these turnouts as designed, but a simple modification allows virtually all makes of locomotives and rolling stock to pass through problem-free (see The 5 Minute Marx Switch Fix).

Marx turnouts may be wired for either track power or transformer power, but they operate best on constant transformer power. Also, Marx turnouts are not pre-wired for non-derailing operation, but this may be easily added by the operator using insulated rail pickups. Other than the lighted versions, Marx remote turnouts do not feature a switch position indicator.

In short, Marx metal turnouts are no-frills, but they are inexpensive, durable, and can be made compatible with nearly all locomotives and cars.

Marx Plastic

A Marx plastic O27 turnout.

The other Marx turnout you may find is the plastic version. Unlike their metal counterparts, these turnouts use movable points like prototype turnouts. They lack traditional guardrails but feature a special spring-loaded attachment that both serves as a device to help keep wheel flanges from derailing on the gaps in the rails in the frog and also allows "fat wheel" locomotives to pass by dropping out of the way of the geared wheels when they pass.

Unfortunately, while the switches do an admirable job of working with the "fat wheel" locomotives, the spring-loaded sections are a poor substitute for real guardrails and many locomotives and cars - especially larger diecast locomotives - will derail on these turnouts frequently. These switches work best when trains travel through them in the "trailing point" direction - meaning from one of the two diverging routes toward the single route. When traveling through the opposite "facing point" direction they are prone to derailments on the open frog.

The video on the left shows the operation of the spring-loaded attachments on the turnout. One attachment has been removed for clarity on the video. 

In short, while these turnouts are inexpensive and are also available in O34 variants, they are not a good choice for most operators as their design, while innovative, makes the prone to derailments.

Happy Railroading!

 

O Scale vs. O Gauge - What's The Difference?

One of the more confusing concepts for beginning hobbyists is understanding the differences between O Scale and O Gauge and how these differences affect our modeling choices. Adding to the confusion is the fact that many hobbyists, and even some manufacturers, use the terms interchangeably when they are, in fact, distinct and separate concepts.

O Gauge

In railroad terms, "gauge" refers to the distance between rails on the track. For example, the "standard gauge" (not to be confused with Lionel "Standard Gauge trains of the 1910's - 1930's ---That's another post!) used by the vast majority of North American and British railways is 4' 8 1/2". There are, however, other track gauges in use such as 3' gauge, Meter Gauge, 30" Gauge, 5' Gauge and more. In model railroad terms O Gauge (technically it should be 0 or "zero gauge", but that's another blog post!) refers to any train running on track that is 1 1/4" between the outermost rails.

A variety of different toy trains that use O Gauge track.

In the photo to the left we see a collection of toy and model trains that all use O Gauge, 1 1/4" track. Obviously, these trains differ in size, detail and their manner of reflecting reality, but they all operate on O Gauge track nevertheless. So as modelers, simply knowing that a train is O Gauge is not enough information to determine how effectively it will operate with other trains or in our overall modeling and operating scheme.

We also must consider whether the model is built to be operated on 3-rail or 2-rail track. 2-rail locomotives use a different method of electrical pickup than 3-rail locomotives and the two are not interchangeable. For rolling stock there are differences in wheel types, wheel flanges, and coupler types that make 2-rail and 3-rail O Gauge trains mostly incompatible. Why do we use three rails in the first place? Again, that is a topic for another article! In the mean time, just accept that we do.

O Scale

In modeling terms, "scale" refers to the relative proportion of the model to its real-life counterpart, or "prototype" as we say in the model universe. HO Scale models, for example, are built to a proportion of 1/87 actual size.  S Scale models are 1/64 actual size. O Scale models are built to a proportion of 1/48 actual size (or sometimes 1/43 actual size but again, that is a topic for another article!).

Another way of thinking about scale is to determine what measurement is equal to a "scale foot". This is similar to the scale of a map with such measurements as 1" to the mile or 1" to 100 miles. O Scale is generally thought of as 1/4" = 1 actual foot. However, we see quickly that by that scale our 1 1/4" track would be 5' gauge, not 4' 8 1/2". Frankly, most modelers ignore this discrepancy in a favor of the easy math of 1" = 4'.

When "Scale" Is Not Scale

Four different O Gauge boxcars. Each is "scale", but only one is O Scale.

O Scale is a wonderful proportion to work with for modeling. Details are easy to see and simple to construct. Trains are large and easy for kids of all ages to handle - even those who wear trifocals. The disadvantage, however, is that trains built to true 1/48 scale require a great deal of real estate to turn around realistically. Since very few of us have room for layouts large enough to accommodate track curves in excess of 12' in diameter, manufacturers have devised methods of making these trains capable of navigating tighter curves. One of these methods is the use of different "scales" with O gauge track.



In the photo above we see four different O gauge boxcars. Each of which is a "scale" model, but only one is proportioned to O scale. The New York Central car in the back left was made by Auburn Models in the early 1950's and was proportioned to be a true 1/48 O scale model of a common 40' boxcar. The yellow Chessie System car to its right is also more or less a scale model of a 40' boxcar but it is proportioned to a slightly smaller scale, roughly 1/50. This car, made by Lionel in the 1970's, is identical in size to the Lionel 6464 series cars of the 1950's to the end of Postwar production in 1969. Many hobbyists refer to this size - slightly smaller than true O scale - as "traditional size".

On the near track, the Southern Pacific car in the front right is a K-Line car based on 1950's to 1970's era Marx tooling. These cars, like most Marx 8-wheel cars, are scaled to 3/16" to the foot, or S Scale, but they ride on O gauge wheels. The Bosco car in the front left is another Lionel model, a "Scout"-type boxcar also built to approximately S scale proportions but on O gauge wheels. These front cars are typical of what many hobbyists consider to be O27 cars - those that can easily navigate the tightest of O gauge curves. However, all four of these cars, including the Auburn Models true 1/48 boxcar, can easily navigate O27 curves.

The Challenge of Proportion

The challenge then, of 3-rail O gauge modeling, is to find cars and locomotives that are proportionally similar and run them together. This is mainly accomplished through time, experience, research, and a bit of trial and error. Unfortunately, most manufacturers offer models proportioned to various scales among their O gauge offerings. For example, Lionel's F-3, GP-7, and NW-2 diesel models are very close to true O scale. Their FA diesels, however, are closer to 1/55 scale. Similarly, Lionel made 4-6-4 steam locomotives that varied from true O scale, like the famous #700E, to the roughly 1/55 scale #2055 Hudson, and the 6-8-6 steam turbine locomotive scaled out to roughly 1/64 scale! Generally speaking, however, the smaller diameter curve the train will handle (27" vs 72" for example) the smaller the proportion of the model. Conversely, if you are looking to model true O scale in 1/48 proportion you will likely be limited to those models that can navigate O42 curves and larger.

Track Type: O or O27?

This diagram from a postwar Lionel instruction sheet
incorrectly identifies the diameter of Standard O curves
as 30" rather than 31".

Further complicating things is that there are two main types of O gauge tubular track: Standard O and O27. Both types are the same gauge (1 1/4") but the rails differ in height and length with Standard O having the larger dimensions in each case. O27 derives its name from the diameter of a circle of track measuring 27" vs. the 31" of Standard O. O gauge hobbyists refer to other curve diameters by number as well, such as O42, O54 and O72 denoting curve diameters of 42", 54" and 72" respectively. If you are not totally confused yet, consider that all of these track diameters are available in both O27 and O31 track profiles!

Which should you choose? It depends on your tastes and your needs. I choose to use O27 track because it is less expensive, readily available, and the lower track profile looks more realistic. On the other hand, Standard O track is more durable and mates with most brands of modern track systems and flexible track such as Gargraves and Atlas O. 

Whichever you choose, Happy Railroading!

 

Let The Kids Be Kids

Here is a short video taken tonight with my 7 year old son at the throttle of a long train. Note how the locomotives are literally swarming with Lego people. Note how Hot Wheels, Matchbox and other vehicles have run amok on the layout. Also notice the fun he is having.

One of the reasons I named my railroad the FUN Lines is to remind me that it is supposed to be FUN and not to get overly concerned with scale accuracy, ultra-realistic scenery, rivet counting, historical accuracy and such.

Let the kids be kids on the layout! Even if YOU think the building should go here and not there, let THEM take control. You will both have more fun in the end.

Tip: Remote Emergency Power Shutoff

More and more often I find that my own "little engineers" and their neighborhood friends want to enjoy some time at the throttle of my under-construction O27 layout. When I know in advance that the kids are coming its easy enough to power up and inexpensive Marx or Lionel starter set on the main lines for the little ones to enjoy. But what about those times when I am enjoying "grandpa's" prized postwar passenger set when the little ones arrive? How can I let them play engineer without fear of my train becoming a very expensive pile of junk on the basement floor?

Luckily, I have found a simple, quick and cheap (my specialty!) device that lets the little ones manage the throttle while I inconspicuously man the Panic Button from anywhere in the room. It is a 3-channel remote-control power switch that is designed for use with holiday lighting displays. It allows me to control three separate circuits remotely. I have Channel 1 plugged into the multi-plug that operates the overhead lights. Channel 2 is plugged into the multi-plug that powers all of the transformers on the layout. Channel 3 is currently empty, but I am sure I will find a use for it sometime.

Look for these where you buy Christmas lights, and especially after Christmas when they will go on clearance!