Tubular Track and Lockon Basics for Beginners

Here is a video made by Lionel's Customer Service department that can be viewed on Lionel.com. These tips apply to all makes of tubular track, not just Lionel. While O27 track is shown in the video, the same principles apply to regular O31 profile track as well.

O27 Tubular Turnout Roundup

If, like me, you choose to use O27 profile tubular track for your model railroad there are several styles of turnouts (switches) available. While none of these is currently in production, most are easy to find at train shows, online auctions and hobby shops that deal in used and collectible trains. Some feature automatic non-derailing or lighted switch-position indicators. Some run on transformer power while others utilize track power. Some are compatible with nearly all eras and manufacturers while others are strictly for post-WWII Lionel-style locomotives. Below is a short roundup of turnouts you are likely to find for your tubular track layout.

Note: According to sources at Lionel, the company has not permanently discontinued production of tubular track. The company feels, however, that the current supply of tubular track is sufficient to meet demand and they have therefore ceased production of new stock until inventory levels require new production. Lionel intends to resume production of tubular track as needed at a later date.

Lionel

Pictured at left is a typical Lionel manual turnout from the 1970's. The basic design of this turnout was the same from the beginning of the Postwar era to current production. The main differences from one model to another is the mechanism housing (upper left in the photo). If this was a remote turnout the switch motor housing would occupy the smooth area seen at the top of this photo.

Most Postwar remote turnouts have lighted position indicators, either a rotating lantern-type (such as the #1122 and 1122-E) or red and green lights on the switch motor housing (such as #1121). MPC-era turnouts feature a position indicator that is designed to look like a dwarf signal, but it is unlighted. Also, most Postwar turnouts came with lighted position indicators on the switch controllers as well. Some MPC turnouts have this feature as well but others had this feature removed as a cost-saving action.

Lionel's remote O27 turnouts are designed to run on track power. This makes wiring easier, but the turnouts may not throw completely if the train is running at slower speeds and lower power. They may be modified to operate on transformer power if desired but this requires disassembling and rewiring the turnout. The nicest feature on Lionel's remote O27 turnouts is the anti-derailing feature that is pre-wired into the switch (except Postwar #1121) that helps prevent a train from running through a turnout that is thrown against it.

Locomotives and rolling stock generally run smoothly through these turnouts unless the locomotives are of the "fat wheel" design often used by Marx and in many Prewar Lionel (pre-1942) locomotives. These types will not run though them whatsoever (See The 5-Minute Marx Switch Fix for more info). Train cars do have a tendency to derail on these turnouts when a train is backing, especially when the train is long or when traveling at higher speeds.

These turnouts and their Postwar cousins are very easy to find and the remote versions can generally be found in good condition for $15 or less. Expect to pay a bit more for those with lights, original boxes or if they have their original controllers. Manual versions can generally be obtained for as little as $5. Lionel also made an O42 version of these turnouts, but these can be difficult to find.

Overall, Lionel's O27 turnouts are an excellent choice for tubular track layouts unless you wish to operate certain Marx or Prewar locomotives on your layout.

K-Line

A K-Line O27 remote turnout

K-Line turnouts include many premium features usually associated with O gauge profile turnouts such as lighted switch position indicators, pre-wired anti-derailing, and the choice of transformer or track power without the need to disassemble the turnout. Also, when properly wired the K-Line switch controller itself also provides lit red or green switch position indication. These turnouts are available as manual or remote in both O27 and O42 configurations. However, production of these turnouts was discontinued when Lionel acquired K-Line's assets and they therefore had a relatively short production life and can be more difficult to locate than the other turnouts described here.

Locations of guardrails (red) and "ramps" (yellow) on K-Line
turnouts.

A highly unusual feature of K-Line turnouts is a design that allows both modern locomotives and, to a lesser extent, older Marx and other "fat wheel" locomotives to pass through. On each route of the turnout the outermost rail features a standard guardrail to prevent train wheels from derailing on the rail gap near the "frog" of the turnout. The inside rail, near the frog, features a "ramp" design that allows "fat wheel" locomotives to pass as well, provided that the "fat" geared wheel is on the ramp side of the turnout. Thus, with a carefully designed layout a Marx or Prewar locomotive can travel around your layout, but only in one particular direction.

The downside of this ramp system is that it can make for a bumpy ride for all locomotives and cars as they pass through the turnout and over the ramp. I have not found this to be a frequent cause of derailments, but it can be visually distracting to see cars rock and bump through the turnout and heavy diecast locomotives often pass with a discernible "thud". Also, just as with Lionel turnouts, trains have a tendency to derail when backing up through these turnouts especially when traveling at faster speeds.

In short, if you desire premium electrical features and don't mind the bumpy ride, K-Line turnouts can be worth the hunt for O27 operators.

Marx Metal

A typical Marx manual metal turnout.

Marx manufactured two basic types of O27 tubular turnouts. Of the two, the metal design is not only more common but also the more functional design. These metal turnouts are found in a number of color variations, usually with black or aluminum colored bases. The motor housings for remote turnouts usually come in black or red. A less common version of the remote turnout features a lighted motor housing with red and green switch position indication.

Unlike all of the other turnouts listed here, these Marx turnouts do not have movable switch "points" but instead a large portion of the rails swivels from side to side. This not only allows all wheel types to pass, including the "fat wheel" type, but makes passage through the turnout as smooth as passing over any standard track section. Some non-Marx locomotives and lighted cars have difficulty passing through these turnouts as designed, but a simple modification allows virtually all makes of locomotives and rolling stock to pass through problem-free (see The 5 Minute Marx Switch Fix).

Marx turnouts may be wired for either track power or transformer power, but they operate best on constant transformer power. Also, Marx turnouts are not pre-wired for non-derailing operation, but this may be easily added by the operator using insulated rail pickups. Other than the lighted versions, Marx remote turnouts do not feature a switch position indicator.

In short, Marx metal turnouts are no-frills, but they are inexpensive, durable, and can be made compatible with nearly all locomotives and cars.

Marx Plastic

A Marx plastic O27 turnout.

The other Marx turnout you may find is the plastic version. Unlike their metal counterparts, these turnouts use movable points like prototype turnouts. They lack traditional guardrails but feature a special spring-loaded attachment that both serves as a device to help keep wheel flanges from derailing on the gaps in the rails in the frog and also allows "fat wheel" locomotives to pass by dropping out of the way of the geared wheels when they pass.

Unfortunately, while the switches do an admirable job of working with the "fat wheel" locomotives, the spring-loaded sections are a poor substitute for real guardrails and many locomotives and cars - especially larger diecast locomotives - will derail on these turnouts frequently. These switches work best when trains travel through them in the "trailing point" direction - meaning from one of the two diverging routes toward the single route. When traveling through the opposite "facing point" direction they are prone to derailments on the open frog.

The video on the left shows the operation of the spring-loaded attachments on the turnout. One attachment has been removed for clarity on the video. 

In short, while these turnouts are inexpensive and are also available in O34 variants, they are not a good choice for most operators as their design, while innovative, makes the prone to derailments.

Happy Railroading!

 

O Scale vs. O Gauge - What's The Difference?

One of the more confusing concepts for beginning hobbyists is understanding the differences between O Scale and O Gauge and how these differences affect our modeling choices. Adding to the confusion is the fact that many hobbyists, and even some manufacturers, use the terms interchangeably when they are, in fact, distinct and separate concepts.

O Gauge

In railroad terms, "gauge" refers to the distance between rails on the track. For example, the "standard gauge" (not to be confused with Lionel "Standard Gauge trains of the 1910's - 1930's ---That's another post!) used by the vast majority of North American and British railways is 4' 8 1/2". There are, however, other track gauges in use such as 3' gauge, Meter Gauge, 30" Gauge, 5' Gauge and more. In model railroad terms O Gauge (technically it should be 0 or "zero gauge", but that's another blog post!) refers to any train running on track that is 1 1/4" between the outermost rails.

A variety of different toy trains that use O Gauge track.

In the photo to the left we see a collection of toy and model trains that all use O Gauge, 1 1/4" track. Obviously, these trains differ in size, detail and their manner of reflecting reality, but they all operate on O Gauge track nevertheless. So as modelers, simply knowing that a train is O Gauge is not enough information to determine how effectively it will operate with other trains or in our overall modeling and operating scheme.

We also must consider whether the model is built to be operated on 3-rail or 2-rail track. 2-rail locomotives use a different method of electrical pickup than 3-rail locomotives and the two are not interchangeable. For rolling stock there are differences in wheel types, wheel flanges, and coupler types that make 2-rail and 3-rail O Gauge trains mostly incompatible. Why do we use three rails in the first place? Again, that is a topic for another article! In the mean time, just accept that we do.

O Scale

In modeling terms, "scale" refers to the relative proportion of the model to its real-life counterpart, or "prototype" as we say in the model universe. HO Scale models, for example, are built to a proportion of 1/87 actual size.  S Scale models are 1/64 actual size. O Scale models are built to a proportion of 1/48 actual size (or sometimes 1/43 actual size but again, that is a topic for another article!).

Another way of thinking about scale is to determine what measurement is equal to a "scale foot". This is similar to the scale of a map with such measurements as 1" to the mile or 1" to 100 miles. O Scale is generally thought of as 1/4" = 1 actual foot. However, we see quickly that by that scale our 1 1/4" track would be 5' gauge, not 4' 8 1/2". Frankly, most modelers ignore this discrepancy in a favor of the easy math of 1" = 4'.

When "Scale" Is Not Scale

Four different O Gauge boxcars. Each is "scale", but only one is O Scale.

O Scale is a wonderful proportion to work with for modeling. Details are easy to see and simple to construct. Trains are large and easy for kids of all ages to handle - even those who wear trifocals. The disadvantage, however, is that trains built to true 1/48 scale require a great deal of real estate to turn around realistically. Since very few of us have room for layouts large enough to accommodate track curves in excess of 12' in diameter, manufacturers have devised methods of making these trains capable of navigating tighter curves. One of these methods is the use of different "scales" with O gauge track.



In the photo above we see four different O gauge boxcars. Each of which is a "scale" model, but only one is proportioned to O scale. The New York Central car in the back left was made by Auburn Models in the early 1950's and was proportioned to be a true 1/48 O scale model of a common 40' boxcar. The yellow Chessie System car to its right is also more or less a scale model of a 40' boxcar but it is proportioned to a slightly smaller scale, roughly 1/50. This car, made by Lionel in the 1970's, is identical in size to the Lionel 6464 series cars of the 1950's to the end of Postwar production in 1969. Many hobbyists refer to this size - slightly smaller than true O scale - as "traditional size".

On the near track, the Southern Pacific car in the front right is a K-Line car based on 1950's to 1970's era Marx tooling. These cars, like most Marx 8-wheel cars, are scaled to 3/16" to the foot, or S Scale, but they ride on O gauge wheels. The Bosco car in the front left is another Lionel model, a "Scout"-type boxcar also built to approximately S scale proportions but on O gauge wheels. These front cars are typical of what many hobbyists consider to be O27 cars - those that can easily navigate the tightest of O gauge curves. However, all four of these cars, including the Auburn Models true 1/48 boxcar, can easily navigate O27 curves.

The Challenge of Proportion

The challenge then, of 3-rail O gauge modeling, is to find cars and locomotives that are proportionally similar and run them together. This is mainly accomplished through time, experience, research, and a bit of trial and error. Unfortunately, most manufacturers offer models proportioned to various scales among their O gauge offerings. For example, Lionel's F-3, GP-7, and NW-2 diesel models are very close to true O scale. Their FA diesels, however, are closer to 1/55 scale. Similarly, Lionel made 4-6-4 steam locomotives that varied from true O scale, like the famous #700E, to the roughly 1/55 scale #2055 Hudson, and the 6-8-6 steam turbine locomotive scaled out to roughly 1/64 scale! Generally speaking, however, the smaller diameter curve the train will handle (27" vs 72" for example) the smaller the proportion of the model. Conversely, if you are looking to model true O scale in 1/48 proportion you will likely be limited to those models that can navigate O42 curves and larger.

Track Type: O or O27?

This diagram from a postwar Lionel instruction sheet
incorrectly identifies the diameter of Standard O curves
as 30" rather than 31".

Further complicating things is that there are two main types of O gauge tubular track: Standard O and O27. Both types are the same gauge (1 1/4") but the rails differ in height and length with Standard O having the larger dimensions in each case. O27 derives its name from the diameter of a circle of track measuring 27" vs. the 31" of Standard O. O gauge hobbyists refer to other curve diameters by number as well, such as O42, O54 and O72 denoting curve diameters of 42", 54" and 72" respectively. If you are not totally confused yet, consider that all of these track diameters are available in both O27 and O31 track profiles!

Which should you choose? It depends on your tastes and your needs. I choose to use O27 track because it is less expensive, readily available, and the lower track profile looks more realistic. On the other hand, Standard O track is more durable and mates with most brands of modern track systems and flexible track such as Gargraves and Atlas O. 

Whichever you choose, Happy Railroading!

 

Let The Kids Be Kids

Here is a short video taken tonight with my 7 year old son at the throttle of a long train. Note how the locomotives are literally swarming with Lego people. Note how Hot Wheels, Matchbox and other vehicles have run amok on the layout. Also notice the fun he is having.

One of the reasons I named my railroad the FUN Lines is to remind me that it is supposed to be FUN and not to get overly concerned with scale accuracy, ultra-realistic scenery, rivet counting, historical accuracy and such.

Let the kids be kids on the layout! Even if YOU think the building should go here and not there, let THEM take control. You will both have more fun in the end.

Tip: Remote Emergency Power Shutoff

More and more often I find that my own "little engineers" and their neighborhood friends want to enjoy some time at the throttle of my under-construction O27 layout. When I know in advance that the kids are coming its easy enough to power up and inexpensive Marx or Lionel starter set on the main lines for the little ones to enjoy. But what about those times when I am enjoying "grandpa's" prized postwar passenger set when the little ones arrive? How can I let them play engineer without fear of my train becoming a very expensive pile of junk on the basement floor?

Luckily, I have found a simple, quick and cheap (my specialty!) device that lets the little ones manage the throttle while I inconspicuously man the Panic Button from anywhere in the room. It is a 3-channel remote-control power switch that is designed for use with holiday lighting displays. It allows me to control three separate circuits remotely. I have Channel 1 plugged into the multi-plug that operates the overhead lights. Channel 2 is plugged into the multi-plug that powers all of the transformers on the layout. Channel 3 is currently empty, but I am sure I will find a use for it sometime.

Look for these where you buy Christmas lights, and especially after Christmas when they will go on clearance!

The 5 Minute Marx Switch Fix

As I have mentioned in previous posts, I use Marx turnouts (switches) throughout my O27 layout. I like these because they are compatible with virtually any locomotive and rolling stock ever made that is designed for O27 curves. I find that all makes of trains travel through these turnouts smoother than on modern designs, especially at high speeds or when backing up. These turnouts are also easy to find, durable and inexpensive. All that is required for nearly all locomotives and cars is a simple 5-minute alteration to the original Marx design.

What Is The Difference?

A typical Lionel O27 turnout. Note the guardrails.

The main design difference between old Marx turnouts made between circa 1940 and circa 1970 and those of other companies is their "frogless" design which eliminates the need for guardrails on the turnout. Modern turnouts operate much like the prototype (real railroad) designs with movable "points" at one end which lead the wheels of the train to one of two routes. The spot where the diverging route meets the inside straight rail a v-shaped rail, called a "frog" is created. Also, a gap must be present in the inside straight rail and the inside diverging rail to allow the flanges of train wheels to pass. To prevent the train from derailing on this gap guardrails are required on the opposite side which keep the wheels from falling into the gap.

A typical Marx metal turnout. Note the movable rails.

On older Marx turnouts, both the diverging rail and the center rail swivel as a single unit from route to route. Thus there are no frogs and no gaps, and therefore no guardrails are required. This creates a smoother passage for the train as there are no gaps to "bump" through and no chance of wheels derailing on such gaps. So, while more modern turnout designs for O27 trains look more realistic, the old metal Marx design offers several operational advantages.

"Fat" Wheels

So why did Marx design their turnouts differently than other manufacturers? The main issue is the so-called "fat wheel". On many early O gauge and O27 locomotives the spur gear from the locomotive motor turned the drive wheels directly via large gears attached to the back of the drive wheels themselves. The diameter of these gears was often the same or only slightly smaller than the drive wheels themselves. This created a "fat wheel" that could not pass through guardrails or other track obstructions. While most manufacturers abandoned the "fat wheel" prior to 1942, Marx maintained the design on all locomotives until 1950, and continued it on many Marx locomotives until the end of Marx production in the 1970's. Therefore, Marx kept the frogless design to accommodate their contemporary line of locomotives.

Fat Wheels on a Marx #400 Steamer

Pick 'Em Up Right

The other difference between Marx products and other, and the one that requires our "fix", is in the design of the electrical pickups on the center rail.  Marx locomotives, as seen in the top photo on the left, use a long copper strip that slides along the center rail. This design maximizes the contact area with the center rail and also prevents the pickup from catching on any gaps that may exist in the center rail due to crossings, turnouts or other special track sections. These pickups, which are also used on Marx's "small gear" locomotives, have no trouble passing through turnouts made by any manufacturer.

Smaller Gears on a Lionel #8141 Steamer

The Catch

Lionel and most non-Marx locomotives use small roller wheels to contact the center rail. These wheels reduce friction with the track but have a smaller contact area and are susceptible to snagging on small gaps in the center rail. Lionel turnouts are designed so that these gaps are small enough to prevent snagging by these pickups. Marx turnouts, however, are not designed this way and some roller pickup locomotives, but not all, may catch on these gaps in the Marx turnout and derail. This is why many O27 operators believe that Marx turnouts are not compatible with Lionel and other locomotives. We will see, however, that this problem can be easily corrected.

Getting Pinned

Center rail gap on unmodified
Marx turnout when set for straight
route.

Center rail gap on unmodified
Marx turnout when set for
diverging route.

The photos above show the locations of the two center rail gaps on an unmodified Marx turnout. These gaps are sufficiently large that roller pickups on some locomotives and cars can drop into the gap, snap the rail, and cause a derailment. The fix for this is to bridge these gaps with simple rail joiners - any O27 brand joiner will work. Simply insert a track pin into the fixed center rail so that it rests as close as possible - but not touching - the swivel rail on either side. This provides not only a physical bridge but an electrical one as well, improving the performance of roller pickup equipment through the turnout.

Friction does well to keep the pin in place, but a drop of ACC cement or a quick touch with a soldering gun will make the fix more permanent.

Marx turnout modified with track pins.

Marx turnout modified with track pins.

And thus, your Marx turnouts may now accommodate not only your Marx locomotives and rolling stock, but that of Lionel and other manufacturers as well! Please note that this trick works only with the metal Marx turnouts. The plastic Marx O27 and O34 turnouts are different in design and are not recommended for use with the locomotives of other makers.

**Note: I have an eclectic collection of postwar and modern locomotives by a variety of manufacturers. To date, I have found only one locomotive for which this fix does not consistently work. That locomotive is a "Beep" diesel by RMT. However, I have found another simple solution that works for that locomotive - and any other that shares its difficulty with Marx turnouts. I will share that solution in a later post. Until then, Happy Railroading!

Product News: RMT "Beeps" on Sale

Ready Made Toys is once again accepting orders for the newest batch of their popular "Beep" diesels. For a limited time they are on sale for only $99.99. Check the RMT Direct web page for details.